Plant-based Lunch at Duli, a Second Time
At the beginning of the year, I visited Duli for the first time, and was really wowed by the quality and creativity of the food, while it felt cozy and intimate at the same time. On account of my vegan friend coming into town, I made a reservation to return.
On this second visit, the menu was just about the same. But because the weather was much warmer (they even opened up their windows to let the breeze flow in), I was much more in the mood for the cold dishes, which seemed unappealing in the dead of winter.
First up was the “Mapo Tofu Hummus,” with mapo tofu, multi-colored tomatoes, and fried basil and other herbs on top of hummus. The hummus and mapo tofu made a surprisingly harmonious blend of tastes. This needed more pita triangles!
Next was the “Yuba and Avocado Mix,” with yuba (tofu skin), orange segments, cucumber, pureed avocado, and a yummy soy vinaigrette that was poured on top (after I asked what the dish was sitting next to it). And there was basil here too - but it tasted much more bright and herbaceous in this dish. This dish overall was just super fresh and clean tasting with a nice acidic touch; the shallots were just a bit over-fried and bitter.
The one repeat from last time was the “Corn & Cauliflower Fritter Bao,” which were a hit last time, and a hit this time as well. The bao was so soft, a great contrast from the crunchy cabbage pickles and the crispy fritter. The only part that was awkward, just as last time, were the rather stalky and raw-tasting pea tendrils. Still, this was a highlight of the meal. When ordering, the waiter asked if we actually wanted to order these individually at 34 RMB each. Um, no thanks! It’s a much better value for 3 for 89 RMB, and it’s not a stretch to share the third bao.
The only dish that I probably wouldn’t order again was the “Gnocchi with Dandan Sauce.” It sounded so promising: handmade seared potato gnocchi, shiitake mushrooms, zhacai pickle, pickled chilis, toasted sesame dandan sauce.” Seared gnocchi just sounded amazing, and tossed dry. But I learned a lesson which I think I’ve learned more than once: gnocchi always sound better than they taste to me, because in my mind a gnocchi is like the ones I made in Bologna at a pasta making class. Those we made with ONLY potato and egg yolk, resulting in a texture “like little pillows of air” I described at the time. “Not at all like the chewy larvae that I have eaten in the past,” I continued. Well, pretty much all the gnocchi I’ve eaten in the future have also been chewy larvae. These weren’t as chewy as some supermarket gnocchi, but still they were rather pasty little nubs. Good flavor though, and I still ate much of this dish.
To round off the lunch, we had coffees. My friend, perhaps out of habit, ordered an Americano. But upon realizing that everything at Duli was plant-based, ordered a cappuccino instead. They even give you the choice of almond or oat milk! I had an almond milk latte.
As I had mentioned yesterday in my post about Mercato, Shanghai just has so many excellent restaurants to try, I hardly ever revisit a restaurant (unless it’s my standby dumpling, wonton, or potsticker place). Duli is one of these few restaurants that I’ve gone to more than once. And because it’s so close to home (less than 5 minutes walk), and because of its easy, casual, and cosy atmosphere, perfect for lingering, it might be my favorite non-Chinese restaurant so far in Shanghai.
