Could Hospital de Bruma really be called a town? In contrast to the real towns of the past two days, the third stop on the Camino Inglés featured the albergue, a single restaurant, a church up the road, and little else.

Eating Galician octopus at its source.

A kind of ho-hum town turned out to be the home of a revelatory meal, one whose memory will surely stick around for a long time.