A truly “royal” Drukair Royal Bhutan Airlines trip: Kathmandu to Paro Airbus A320neo Business Class

The drama around our flight from Kathmandu (KTM) to Paro (PBH) began long before the flight itself.

We had purchased business class seats because this was supposed to be one of the most scenic flights in the world, with views of the Himalayas including Mt. Everest, and we thought the view from business class would be more likely to be clear of the wing.

Nervous that we wouldn’t get the coveted left-hand window seats for the good views, I even bought an eSIM before arriving in Nepal (Nomad, running on Ncell), and bought a second eSIM on a different network at the airport (Nepal Telecom) - all so that I would have cellular service to do online check-in 72 hours before the flight. 72 hours before the flight was exactly when we were hiking from Nagarkot to Dhulikhel.

Unfortunately, when it came time to check in, there were many complications. First, online check-in didn’t open exactly at 72 hours prior. I had to wait maybe 40 minutes before the system would let me in. Then, we had to input all of our passport information one by one, which took some time.

And then, to my horror already 3 out of the 4 left-hand side pairs were already reserved when I was finally able to get through to the seat map. And THEN, when I tried to reserve the last remaining left-hand window, I got an error message.

I tried and tried, but couldn’t get through. I then got the Bhutan travel agent who booked the flight to try to help, and he said that they couldn’t get through either. Finally, sometime in the afternoon (about 8 hours later) he did email me the boarding passes for seats 4A, 4C, 4D, 4F.

Then it finally came time to drop off our bags at Kathmandu airport. There was a business class line, but people cut in from the side, and it was a it of a mess.

To my shock, the agent told me that I had reserved 3D, 3F, 4D, 4F, all right-hand side seats. I said that wasn’t possible, I had reserved 4A and 4C, and she said well someone else did online check-in. I said, I did too and showed her the boarding passes with 4A and 4C on my phone. She just said that they weren’t available anymore, and she gave me the last remaining seats on the left side, 5A and 5C, along with 4D and 4F. Very fishy! Besides, there wasn’t a row 5 when I checked in earlier.

In any case, I accepted this fate but wasn’t too happy about being jerked around like this.

After immigration, we went to the Radisson lounge that is a part of the business class ticket, although Priority Pass would have also gotten us in.

It’s up a flight of stairs (no escalator).

There was a main sofa area, where we parked ourselves.

An attendant came by to give us bottled water, unprompted.

There was a food area, with some items in display cases, which I guess you order from an attendant.

And also a hot buffet line. There was an extensive selection, but we had just eaten a nice (though hurried) breakfast at the Hotel Barahi.

I just had a glass of watermelon juice. I don’t think it was freshly made though.

There were a couple different sofa areas, including this “40 Winks Room!”

It was a quieter area, with some BarcaLounger-type armchairs.

This was also the only place in the lounge with a peek of tarmac views.

They then announced that passengers on Drukair KB401 to Paro should go through security and final immigration. So we did.

Eventually, the plane pulled into the gate. Though the plane was parked directly in front of the ground-level gate, we still had to get on a bus to board the plane!

Boarding was done through both front and rear air stairs, for this Airbus A320neo.

Indeed there were 5 rows of business class, looking sharp and modern.

There was a pre-departure beverage selection of water, mocktail (sparking orange and mango), and cocktail. I took a mocktail, which was very refreshing! We also got a hot towel.

Then some officials from FIFA boarded the plane. But then another VVIP was about to board. I could see the two pilots go down the air stairs and stand by at the side. I asked the FIFA official seated nearby who it was, because he seemed to know. And it turned out to be the former King of Nepal!

No wonder the first three rows of left-hand window pairs were already reserved, even though I got in online check-in as soon as it opened. That was where the kind and his entourage were sitting. And this could explain why online check-in didn’t work until much later.

Anyway, this made the flight even more exciting!

Soon after takeoff, really within a few minutes, the captain turned off the fasten seatbelt sign. He also began his PA with “your royal highness!” He said that he would announce the mountains that would appear on the left side.

They started appearing very quickly - before the meal trays were set out.

And I think this was Mt. Everest!

Even though it was a cloudy day, the peaks still poked up above the clouds!

Meal service started with laying a tablecloth with embroidered dragon in a corner.

The flight attendant offered a choice of tuna or vegetarian. I took the vegetarian option, along with a glass of mango juice.

The vegetarian snack turned out to be vegetable and cheese momos! While the tuna was a pastry turnover filled with tuna. Both came with a cheese? Egg? Butter? Sandwich.

The momo was tasty, a bit dry but totally understandable given the serving conditions.

There was also a Swiss roll cake. The creme was a bit industrial, where it appeared very stiff and white.

I got a cup of coffee to go along with dessert. Very impressive, to be served this substantial snack - with a choice of two options - on a 50 minute flight!

It was soon time to land. The first sightings of Bhutan: very green and mountainous!

There was the famous approach to Paro, where the wings get very close to the surrounding mountains.

After landing, I noticed a soldier saluting our plane. Do they do this for all Drukair flights? Or just because we have the former King of Nepal on board?

When we pulled up to our stand, I could see a red carpet at the ready!

Then there was a receiving line, and the King of Nepal got a yellow scarf as welcome gift, signaling his highest rank (we just learned this today from our guide!). The others in his entourage got white scarves (which we as tourists got from our guides as a traditional welcome, too).

At Paro, we simply walked to the terminal.

And we were greeted by a most beautiful immigration hall!

Despite the drama and anxiety over seat allocation and getting the views of Mt. Everest, it all worked out. There was enough legroom in business class where my mom and my sister, who were on the right side of the plane when Mt. Everest was announced, to come over and take pictures. And we got the added excitement of being on the same flight as the former King of Nepal!